Views: 30 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2017-05-25 Origin: Site
What happens: After drying, the putty feels powdery to the touch; in severe cases, it peels off or light sanding reveals the wall underneath, leaving uneven color. This can affect both interior and exterior walls.
Sanding timing: Sanding interior putty too late (after the surface is fully dry) causes chalking.
Weather/conditions: For exterior walls, applying a thin coat in hot summer sun or high winds dries the putty too fast—no time for proper curing.
Expired or poorly stored putty: Using putty past its shelf life, or storing it in damp conditions, weakens its ability to stick.
Wall absorption: A wall with high water absorption dries the putty out before it sets.
Alkali reversion: A chemical reaction in the wall damages the putty, reducing adhesion.
Low-quality putty: Inferior products lack the bonding strength to stay intact.
Sand at the right time: For interior walls, sand immediately after surface watermarks disappear—this is the "sweet spot."
Handle exterior walls carefully: After exterior putty dries, lightly sand and mist with water for maintenance (repeat 2+ times if needed). For better results, dilute a transparent sealer primer with water (1:5) and spray as a second coat.
Check shelf life and storage: Use putty before it expires; if expired, test a small area first. Store putty in a cool, dry place with sealed packaging to block moisture.
Prep the wall: In hot, windy, or dry conditions, dampen the wall with clean water first. Wait until no visible water remains before applying putty.
Treat alkali reversion: Use specialized treatments to neutralize alkali in the wall before applying putty.
Choose quality products: Opt for putty that meets industry standards for bonding strength.
What happens: Parts or all of the dried putty develop yellow spots or discoloration, often soon after application.
Chemical reactions: On old interior walls, old putty may contain PVA glue. Over time, this glue breaks down into acids that react with calcium in new putty, forming yellow salts.
Contamination: Oil, grease, or rust on the wall (not cleaned off) can stain the putty.
Mixed products: Applying putty alongside polyester paint or release agents triggers discoloration.
Damp walls: Applying putty to a damp wall traps moisture, leading to yellowing.
Seal old walls: Roll on 2 coats of eco-friendly glue or sealer primer; let dry completely before applying new putty.
Clean the wall first: Remove oil, grease, or rust with a degreaser or mild cleaner.
Avoid mixing products: Don't use polyester paint or release agents at the same time as putty.
Check wall moisture: Ensure the wall is dry before application. If damp, treat with a moisture barrier first.
Choose the right putty: Use paste putty or board-specific putty for old or problematic walls.
What happens: Bubbles form during application or after drying, creating a bumpy, uneven surface.
Rough walls + fast application: A rough base layer combined with quick, uneven spreading traps air.
Too thick a coat: Applying a single layer thicker than 2.0mm causes uneven drying—air gets trapped inside.
Moist or dense walls: Walls with high moisture or uneven density (full of small pores) trap air. Putty, which is less breathable, locks this air in.
Poor mixing: Undissolved powder particles in the putty absorb water after application and swell, creating bubbles.
Pop and reapply: For small bubbles, use a trowel to break them, then smooth over with fresh putty.
Mix properly: Stir putty thoroughly, let it rest for 10 minutes, then stir again with an electric mixer before use.
Catch bubbles early: If bubbling occurs in the second or final coat, break bubbles with a trowel before the surface dries (while watermarks are still visible).
Prep rough walls: Use thick putty as a base layer for very rough walls to fill pores.
Dampen dry walls: In dry, windy, or sunny conditions, dampen the wall first—wait until dry, then apply putty to slow evaporation.
What happens: Lines or splits form in the dried putty, ranging from small hairline cracks to larger gaps.
Wet base layers: Applying putty to a wall with moisture over 10% causes uneven drying and shrinking.
Layer drying mismatch: The putty's surface dries faster than its interior, creating stress that leads to cracks.
Thick coats: Applying putty too thick (more than 2–3mm per layer) slows inner drying, while the surface dries quickly—pulling the layer apart.
Undried fillers: Putting hard interior putty over under-dried filling or leveling materials traps moisture, causing cracks later.
Wall issues: Pre-existing cracks in the wall, or gaps where different materials (concrete, wood) meet, transfer to the putty.
Remove and redo: Scrape off cracked putty. For small cracks, first apply flexible putty to "bridge" the gap, then follow standard steps.
Keep layers thin: Apply no more than 2–3mm per coat. Wait at least 4 hours between layers—only add the next coat when the first is fully dry.
Check the wall first: Repair pre-existing wall cracks with filler, and treat joints between different materials with flexible sealant.
Ensure dry fillers: Let filling or leveling materials dry completely before applying putty.
What happens: Putty peels away from the wall or from other putty layers, leaving bare spots.
Slippery surfaces: Smooth old walls (with tempered putty or oil-based paint) or new concrete walls (cast with formwork) have low adhesion—often due to release agents (wax, oil) on the surface.
Powdery or leaky walls: A highly powdery wall, or one with water leaks or alkali reversion, can't bond well with putty.
Poor layer timing: Waiting more than 15 days between putty coats lets the bottom layer dry too hard, so the top layer can't stick.
Wrong materials: Applying rigid putty directly to non-mortar surfaces (wood, metal, plywood) fails—these materials expand/contract differently than putty.
Water damage: Rain or leaks soaking the putty during/after application washes out bonding agents, causing peeling.
Prep slippery walls: Sand smooth surfaces to roughen them, then apply an interface agent (10% eco-friendly glue or dedicated sealer) to boost adhesion.
Remove release agents: Use degreaser to clean wax, oil, or other residues from new concrete walls.
Treat powdery/leaky walls: For severely powdery walls, scrape off the powdery layer or seal it with diluted primer (10% sealer + water) first. Fix leaks before applying putty.
Stick to timing: Keep gaps between coats under 15 days, especially for interior putty.
Use the right putty: For wood, metal, or plywood, use two-component or surface-specific putty. For exterior walls (marble, tiles), use exterior renovation putty as a base.
Protect from water: Keep putty dry during application and for 8 hours after—cover with plastic if rain is expected.
